MAKING THE CONNECTION |
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Cold Lead to Cold Lead |
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Strip wires. The Cold Lead splice is made using a Heatizon E211 butt splice connector. This connection is accomplished by stripping back the insulation on on both Cold lead wires to be spliced one inch. |
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Crimp connection. Slide the heat shrink tubing and sleeve over one Cold Lead to a point at least 8” beyond the splice. Insert the Cold Leads into the E211 butt splice connector. Crimp the connection in two locations on each side of the lug. |
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Solder connection. Solder all exposed copper strands of Cold Lead with the solder provided. Make certain that heat is sufficient to draw solder completely into the splice. Never scorch the insulator on the Cold Lead. |
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| Heat shrink connection. When the splice has completely cooled slide the heat shrink and center it over the splice. Use a broad soft flame torch or hot air gun to heat around the diameter of the tube to warm and shrink it. Do not scorch the tube. The shrink is complete when adhesive oozes from between the tube and the Cold Lead. |
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7-1 |
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MAKING THE CONNECTION |
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Tuff Cable to Cold Lead |
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For each connection from Tuff Cable to Cold Lead, you have been provided the following items in your Tuff Cable Heating Element Kit: E210BS Butt Splice, plastic sleeve and a heat shrink length. You will also need wire strippers, a crimping tool, and a broad soft flame torch or hot air gun. |
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Strip wires. The Tuff Cable element is connected to the Cold Lead with the Heatizon E210BS butt splice connector. This connection is accomplished by stripping back the insulation on the Tuff Cable and Cold Lead wires to be spliced seven eights of an inch. |
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Crimp connection. Slide the heat shrink tubing and sleeve over the Tuff Cable to a point at least 8” beyond the splice. Insert the Tuff Cable and the Cold Lead into the E210BS butt splice connector. Crimp the connection in two locations on each side of the lug. |
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Solder connection. Solder all exposed copper strands of Tuff Cable and Cold Lead with the solder provided. Make certain that heat is sufficient to draw solder completely into the splice. Never heat the small end of the E210BS butt splice or scorch the insulator on the Tuff Cable or Cold Lead. While connection is cooling carefully slide the sleeve over Tuff Cable end of the E210BS butt splice. |
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Heat shrink connection. When the splice has completely cooled slide the heat shrink and center it over the splice. Use a broad soft flame torch or hot air gun to heat around the diameter of the tube to warm and shrink it. Do not scorch the tube. The shrink is complete when adhesive oozes from between the tube and the Tuff Cable and Cold Lead. |
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7-2 |
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MAKING THE CONNECTION |
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Tuff Cable to Tuff Cable Splice |
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Strip connection. Tuff Cable splicing is accomplished by sliding the provided heat shrink at least 8” beyond the splice and then stripping back one inch (1”) of insulation on the end of both wires to be spliced. |
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Crimp connection. Insert stripped wires from one end of the Tuff Cable into number 10 butt splice connector provided in splice kit and crimp the connection well. Repeat this procedure for the other end of the Tuff Cable. |
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Solder connection. Solder the splice with provided solder being careful not to burn the insulation on the wire. |
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Heat shrink connection. When the splice cools slide and center the heat shrink over the butt splice. Warm the diameter of the heat shrink until adhesive oozes from between the Tuff Cable and the Heat shrink. |
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Secure the repaired Tuff Cable in place. |
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Always use a Tuff Cable Splice Kit whenever the Tuff Cable has been cut or damaged in any way. A Cable Repair Kit (CABREPKIT) should be used whenever repairing Tuff Cable in existing concrete or asphalt. |
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7-3 |
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MAKING THE CONNECTION |
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ZMesh to Cold Lead and Transition Plate |
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Connect Cold Lead to Transition Plate. Connect the transition plate to Cold Lead by stripping back 1 inch of insulation from the Cold Lead. Insert the exposed Cold Lead into the butt splice connector on transition plate and crimp twice. |
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Solder Cold Lead Connection. Solder all exposed copper strands of Cold Lead with provided solder, heating the butt splice sufficient to draw solder back into the splice. |
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Install ZMesh in Transition plate fold. If necessary cut the ZMesh so that it can extend the full depth of the fold on the transition plate. The ZMesh can easily be cut using scissors. Place the ZMesh in the fold of the plate and hammer down the fold as flat as possible using a length of 2 by 4 or a hammer. Caution should be used when hammering the fold to avoid hitting ZMesh on the tip of the transition plate. |
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Solder ZMesh connection. Apply heat to the Transition plate only and never to the ZMesh. Be extremely careful not to burn holes in the ZMesh. Apply the provided solder to the ZMesh. The solder will be drawn back into the fold and create a permanent bond between the Z Mesh and the Transition plate. |
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7-4 |
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MAKING THE CONNECTION |
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ZMesh to ZMesh with Z-Splice Plate |
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Cut both runs of ZMesh to be spliced, leaving the cut straight and flat. Remove any loose strands. Insert first section of ZMesh into one side of the Z splice plate. Gently crimp or compress Z fold; ensure that ZMesh stays fully inserted in the fold. Repeat this procedure with second length of ZMesh. |
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Flatten the connection by crimping or compressing the splice plate down on top of both pieces of ZMesh using a short length of 2x4 stud or by tapping gently with a hammer or rubber mallet. |
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Solder Splice connection. Apply heat to the splice plate using a propane torch. Place the tip of the solder ahead of the flame until solder flows into the fold. The entire length of the connection between Z Mesh element and Transition Plate must be soldered. Be careful not to scorch or burn holes in the Z Mesh or to ignite or damage the subsurface. |
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7-5 |
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